Create a cozy pink-and-cream crochet checkered pencil case with tiny embroidered red tulips and a zipper closure. This Crochet Moodboard tutorial uses 24 single-crochet squares, arranged into two matching checkerboard panels, with complete instructions for embroidery, joining, zipper installation and a fabric lining.
Crochet Pencil Case Overview
Make 24 squares, embroider the cream blocks, join two panels, sew the pouch body, install the zipper and add a lining for everyday use.
Why You’ll Love This Crochet Pencil Case
- Soft checkerboard colors: dusty pink and cream create a coordinated patchwork design.
- Portable stages: crochet and embroider the small squares individually.
- Useful storage: the lined pouch holds pens, crochet hooks, makeup brushes or craft supplies.
- Simple stitch pattern: all squares use single crochet with no increases or decreases.
- Personal finishing: change the embroidery colors or leave the checkerboard plain.
Materials & Tools
The yarn quantities above are purchase allowances rather than measured consumption. Yarn length per gram varies; make the gauge square before buying additional yarn for a larger version.
Fiber Choice, Gauge & Finished Size
Recommended fiber: choose smooth DK cotton or a firm cotton blend, using the same yarn range for pink and cream. Cotton gives clear stitch definition and can make a firm fabric, although it can still stretch under weight. Very soft acrylic may produce a more flexible pouch; if you use it, add a woven lining and stabilize the zipper opening. Avoid fluffy or loosely spun yarn around the zipper, where stray fibers can catch in the slider.
Target gauge: 24 single crochet stitches and 32 rows per 10 cm, measured after washing and drying according to the yarn label. At this gauge, each 12-stitch × 16-row square measures approximately 5 × 5 cm. Four squares across and three squares high give a panel approximately 20 × 15 cm before outer seams. Joining tension and zipper placement affect the final usable dimensions.
For a more reliable gauge reading, ch 25, work 24 sc for 32 rows, then wash, dry flat and measure. If there are fewer than 24 stitches per 10 cm, try a smaller hook; if there are more, try a larger hook. Check row gauge as well: a square must be approximately as tall as it is wide. Keep the fabric firm without making the stitches difficult to work.
Make one square in each color. Equal yarn weight does not always produce equal dimensions.
Each square has 12 stitches in every row and 16 rows in total. The turning chain does not count.
Check that the planned internal width accommodates your longest pen or hook, including room to close the zipper.
Crochet Abbreviations
These instructions use US crochet terminology.
| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| ch | chain |
| sc | single crochet |
| st / sts | stitch / stitches |
| RS / WS | right side / wrong side; designate one face as the outside |
Step 1 — Crochet the Checkerboard Squares
Make 12 dusty pink squares and 12 cream squares. Each panel uses six squares of each color. Work flat in rows, turning after every row.
Make the first square
Follow the 12-stitch × 16-row instructions, then check its dimensions before making the remaining blocks.
Foundation: ch 13.
Row 1: sc in the second ch from the hook and in each remaining ch. (12 sc)
Rows 2–16: ch 1, turn. Sc in the first st and in each remaining st across, working under both top loops. (12 sc per row)
Finish: cut the yarn, leaving a 20 cm tail, and pull it through the last loop. Mark your chosen RS. Make no border around the individual squares.
The ch 1 at the beginning of a row never counts as a stitch. Work the first sc into the first actual stitch and the last sc into the last actual stitch. Mark those two stitches if the edges are difficult to identify. You should have 12 stitch tops across the final row and 16 row ends down each side.
Step 2 — Embroider the Tiny Red Tulips
Embroider one small three-petal red tulip bud on each of the 12 cream squares. The standard motif is a red bud without a stem. Use smooth embroidery yarn thinner than the square yarn so the detail sits neatly on the fabric.
Mark the center
Place each square with its foundation edge at the bottom and Row 16 at the top. Count columns from left to right on your chosen RS.
Tulip Placement Guide
Use the gaps between stitches and rows as embroidery anchor points. A “gap after Row 7” means the horizontal space between Rows 7 and 8. Mark these four points with removable thread:
- Base: between columns 6 and 7, in the gap after Row 7.
- Left petal tip: between columns 4 and 5, in the gap after Row 10.
- Center petal tip: between columns 6 and 7, in the gap after Row 11.
- Right petal tip: between columns 8 and 9, in the gap after Row 10.
Stitch the three petals
Three small groups of straight stitches fan out from one base point. The center petal is slightly taller than the side petals.
- Thread a yarn needle with approximately 45 cm of red embroidery yarn. Leave an 8 cm tail on the WS.
- Bring the needle up at the base point and down at the left petal tip. Make two more straight stitches beside the first, shifting the entry and exit points slightly within the neighboring fabric so the three strands form a narrow filled petal.
- Bring the needle up beside the same base point and down at the center petal tip. Repeat twice more beside that stitch to make the taller center petal.
- Work three closely spaced straight stitches from beside the base point to the right petal tip.
- Keep all nine stitches resting on the surface. Pull only enough to remove slack; the square should remain flat when released.
- On the WS, weave the finishing tail under several crochet stitches in two directions. Secure the starting tail the same way. Remove the placement threads.
- Repeat on the remaining cream squares, keeping all buds oriented toward Row 16.
If the needle falls into an oversized gap, catch a small part of the neighboring crochet stitch to anchor the embroidery. Keep the WS travel threads within the motif area, without long loose floats that could snag.
Optional stem: use fine green yarn to make two short backstitches down the center line from the gap after Row 7 to the gap after Row 4. Add one short diagonal stitch from the stem toward the left or right for a leaf. Finish the tails on the WS.
Step 3 — Arrange the Checkerboard
Make two identical panels, each four squares wide and three squares high. Each panel contains six pink squares and six cream tulip squares. Place both panels with their RS facing up, all foundation edges downward and all tulips upright.
Front and Back Layout — Repeat Twice
Read the diagram from top to bottom. The top band sits beside the zipper; the bottom band sits beside the base seam. Each panel is a separate checkerboard, with its color pattern restarting at the side seams.
Step 4 — Join the Crochet Squares
Use matching yarn and a yarn needle to make flat whipstitched seams. Keep the squares side by side with RS facing up rather than stacking them; tighten each stitch only enough to bring the edges together.
- Join four squares into a band: begin at the bottom of two neighboring squares. Catch one secure edge loop at each corresponding row end, passing across the gap between the squares. Continue upward with one joining stitch per row end: 16 matched pairs per vertical join.
- Attach the third and fourth squares the same way. Make three four-square bands for the first panel.
- Join the bands: place the lower band below the next band, both RS up. Match the square corners and internal seams before stitching.
- Pair each of the lower band's 12 top stitches with the corresponding foundation stitch of the square above it. Catch one secure loop from each edge with every joining stitch: 12 matched pairs per square, 48 pairs across the band.
- Join the third band in the same way. At seam intersections, keep the corners together without taking extra stitches that bunch the fabric.
- Repeat for the second panel. Weave in tails on the WS and smooth both panels flat.
Each completed panel has 48 stitches across the top and 48 row ends down each outside edge. These count different parts of the fabric; at the target gauge the panel is wider than it is tall. Check that both panels match before sewing the pouch.
Step 5 — Sew the Pencil Case Body
This version is a flat rectangular pouch made from two panels. It needs no separate side strip, bottom strip or gusset.
- Place the panels RS together, with both top edges aligned and the tulips pointing toward the top. Clip the corners and matching square seams.
- Using matching yarn, whipstitch one side from top to bottom through corresponding edge loops, pairing the 48 row ends.
- Sew across the bottom, matching the 48 foundation stitches of one panel with those of the other.
- Sew up the second side, pairing its 48 row ends. Leave the entire top open.
- At each bottom corner, anchor the change of direction with one small securing stitch without gathering the fabric.
- Weave in the yarn ends and turn the pouch RS out. Ease the corners into shape with your fingers.
Check the top edges before installing the zipper. They should lie at the same height without one side stretching farther than the other.
Step 6 — Stabilize and Install the Zipper
Use a closed-end nylon coil zipper. Measure the top opening from side seam to side seam with the pouch lying flat and unstretched. The distance between the zipper stops should fit this span, allowing approximately 5 mm clearance at each end. For example, a 20 cm opening can accommodate a zipper with a usable stop-to-stop length of about 19 cm.
Choose an appropriate length or have a nylon coil zipper shortened with a secure new stop. Do not cut away an existing stop before a new one is in place. Leave extra zipper tape beyond the stops to fold inside the pouch.
Stabilize a Stretchy Opening
If the crochet edge lengthens when gently handled, cut two strips of thin woven cotton tape or ribbon to the relaxed opening length. Baste one strip along the WS of each top edge, approximately 5 mm below the edge. The strips should lie flat and support the crochet without gathering it. This is especially useful with flexible acrylic yarn.
- Mark the centers: fold the opening lightly to find the midpoint of each top edge. Mark the midpoint of both zipper tapes between the stops.
- Position the first tape: place the zipper inside the opening with the pull facing outward. Match the centers and ends. Keep the crochet edge approximately 3–4 mm away from the teeth so the slider has a clear path.
- Baste: use long temporary sewing stitches to attach the first tape, catching the stabilization strip if used. Keep the crochet at its relaxed length.
- Match the second side: close the zipper, align the opposite crochet edge at the same height and baste it to the second tape. Check that the square seams line up across the closed opening.
- Check before sewing: open and close the zipper. If it waves, remove the basting in that section and redistribute the fabric. If it catches, move the crochet farther from the teeth.
- Sew permanently: with a sewing needle and matching polyester thread, work small backstitches approximately 3–4 mm long along each tape. Catch secure crochet loops and the tape, positioning the stitches roughly 5–7 mm from the teeth. Include the stabilization strip where present.
- Finish the ends: fold the extra tape inward and tack it securely to the inside side seams. Reinforce each end with several small stitches through the tape and crochet, keeping the needle away from the teeth and stops.
- Remove the basting and check the full slider path again before adding the lining.
Optional — Add a Fabric Lining
A woven cotton lining is strongly recommended for pens and crochet hooks. It covers embroidery tails, helps contain small items and reduces the chance of tool tips pushing through the crochet. For extra structure, apply lightweight woven interfacing to the lining pieces according to its manufacturer's instructions before sewing.
Measure and Cut
Measure the available interior width, W, between the side seams and the depth, H, from the bottom seam to the intended lining attachment line on the zipper tape. Measure with the pouch unstretched.
Plan a finished lining approximately 0.5 cm narrower and 0.5 cm shallower than that space. With 1 cm seam allowances on the sides and bottom, plus a 1 cm top fold, cut two rectangles measuring (W + 1.5 cm) × (H + 1.5 cm).
Example: if the available interior is 19 cm wide and 13.5 cm deep, cut two pieces 20.5 × 15 cm. After sewing and folding the top, the lining measures approximately 18.5 × 13 cm.
- Place the two fabric rectangles RS together. Sew both sides and the bottom with a 1 cm seam allowance, leaving the top open.
- Finish the raw seam edges with a zigzag stitch or another suitable seam finish. Trim excess corner bulk without cutting the stitching.
- Fold the top edge 1 cm toward the fabric's WS and press. Follow the fabric and interfacing care instructions.
- Keep the lining WS out and insert it into the crochet pouch. Its fabric RS should face the contents, with all seam allowances hidden between the lining and crochet.
- Fit the lining without pulling on the shell. Adjust the side or bottom seams if it bunches significantly or holds the pouch under tension.
- Clip the folded upper edge to the inside zipper tape, below the teeth and clear of the slider. Hand-sew it to the tape with small slip stitches, leaving the crochet face free of visible lining stitches.
- Make a small loose tack between the lining and shell at each bottom corner. This helps prevent the lining pulling out when you remove an item.
Keep the Checkerboard Straight & Reduce Stretch
Use the same yarn range and hook for both colors. Correct uneven squares before joining rather than tightening the seams to force them into place.
After a few joining stitches, lay the work flat. A ridged or cupped seam usually needs less tension.
Baste before sewing and stabilize flexible top edges with woven tape. Avoid stretching the crochet to match a zipper that is too long.
Use a woven lining for pointed tools and small stitch markers. Carry sharp scissors with their own protective cover.
If closing the zipper pulls the checkerboard out of shape, remove items or make a larger version.
Follow the care requirements of the yarn, fabric and zipper. Reshape gently after washing and avoid hanging a wet pouch by its opening.
Finished Crochet Pencil Case
Check that the zipper runs freely, the embroidery lies flat and the lining stays clear of the teeth. Remove any remaining markers and trim secured thread ends. The completed pouch can hold stationery, crochet tools, makeup brushes or small craft supplies that fit comfortably inside.
Ways to Customize Your Crochet Pencil Case
- Strawberry: replace the tulips with small embroidered strawberry motifs.
- Cherry: add paired red motifs with fine green stems.
- Daisy: use white petals and yellow centers.
- Heart: embroider small red or pink hearts on the cream blocks.
- Minimal: skip the embroidery and keep the checkerboard plain.
- Longer tool case: add a fifth column to each panel. At the target gauge, the panel width becomes approximately 25 cm; make 30 squares total, 15 of each color, and continue alternating colors in each band.
Color Ideas
Frequently Asked Questions
Is this crochet pencil case beginner-friendly?
The squares use only chains and single crochet. Accurate joining, embroidery and hand-sewing the zipper make the complete project best suited to an advanced beginner. Work through one square and one motif before making the full set.
How many squares do I need?
The standard version uses 24 squares: 12 pink and 12 cream. Make two panels, each four squares across and three squares high, with six squares of each color per panel.
Why are there 16 rows but only 12 stitches?
Single crochet stitches and rows have different dimensions. At the target gauge of 24 stitches and 32 rows per 10 cm, 12 stitches and 16 rows both measure approximately 5 cm. Check your own row and stitch gauge before making all the blocks.
What yarn works best?
Smooth DK cotton or a firm cotton blend gives clear stitch definition. Cotton can still stretch, so use a lining and support the zipper opening when needed. Soft acrylic works for a more flexible version, especially with a woven lining.
Can I make it bigger?
Yes. Add complete columns or bands to both panels and continue the alternating colors. Count the pink and cream squares in your revised layout before crocheting. Measure the new opening for the zipper and the sewn interior for the lining.
Do I need a lining?
A lining is optional, but recommended for pens, hooks and small notions. It covers the embroidery tails and helps keep narrow items from working through the stitches.
Why does my zipper edge look wavy?
The crochet may have stretched during sewing, the tape may be too long for the opening, or the fabric may be distributed unevenly. Remove the affected stitches, lay the opening flat, match the centers and ends, and baste again without stretching.
Can I use it as a crochet-hook case?
Yes, provided the usable interior width accommodates your hooks. Check their length before assembly; longer ergonomic hooks may need the five-column version.
Save This Crochet Pencil Case for Later
Save this project to your Crochet Pencil Cases Pinterest board so you can come back to the tutorial whenever you are ready to crochet.
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